Alipus San Miguel De Sola Mezcal

San Miguel de Sola comes from the far side of Oaxaca. Alipús is the single-village project Los Danzantes launched in 1999 to bottle individual family palenques and put the maker's name on the label, and most of its villages sit in the Tlacolula valley east of Oaxaca City; San Miguel, added in 2013, is made in Potrero, a remote pueblo in the Sola de Vega region to the southwest — different mountains, different soil, different water — by Don Félix García, Leonardo Rojas, and Tío Jesús. Espadín is wood-roasted in a conical earthen horno, crushed by tahona, fermented in wood, and double-distilled in copper, bottled at around 47% ABV; lots vary, so check yours. Sola de Vega mezcals have a reputation among enthusiasts for a rustic, mineral, sometimes wilder character than the Tlacolula bottlings, and San Miguel is the Alipús that shows it: expect a nose of roasted agave, wet stone, and green herbs with a clean smoke, opening into a palate with more earth and minerality than the fruit-driven San Andrés — cooked agave, pepper, a savory depth, and a faintly bitter herbal edge — finishing long and dry. Honest note: this is the Alipús for drinkers who want to taste terroir, and the least sweet of the family. Spirit Animal's verdict on the range applies: the bottlings are as different from one another as snakes from llamas. For a neat copita that tastes like a specific mountainside, or a savory Mezcal Negroni, it's the far corner of the map.

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